We spent our fourth day in Luang Prabang doing mostly nothing, which was absolutely glorious.
We started off with breakfast at a cafe by the river, then headed to a local bar/restaurant/lounge called Utopia, the same one we had spent an evening drinking, a few days before. Boasting to be “Zen by Day, Groovy by Night,” Utopia was the perfect place to lay back and relax the day away, lounging on cushions on the deck overlooking the river.
After laying around all day, we decided to watch the sunset at Wat Chom Si. The Buddhist temple sits atop Mount Phou Si, a 330 foot hill in the center of Luang Prabang, which we climbed up about half an hour before the sun went down. We hadn’t expected much out of it, but the view of the city and surrounding scenery was surprisingly spectacular!
It was a bit cloudy, so the sunset was a little lack luster; but once it had disappeared behind the mountains, the clouds lit up in all kinds of stunning colors.
Then, we walked around the temple to see the moon on the other side!
We had worked up an appetite climbing up and down the hill, and decided on another dinner of Lao barbecue. This time, we tried a place by the river where each person gets a plate for 60,000kip, and can refill it an unlimited number of times with raw meats and veggies to cook.
We had heard it on the lips of other backpackers many times since arriving in Luang Prabang: “Have you been to the bowling alley?” The bowling alley is one of the few establishments open past the midnight curfew in the city, and where all of the boisterous partiers go when the bars in town shut down. We were curious, but hadn’t made it there yet, mostly because we usually go to bed long before anyone goes there.
On this night, we were determined to see what it was about. We headed back to Utopia around 10, where most of the backpackers seem to start their nights. After a few beers in the garden, things started to shut down around 11:30. At this point, there was a mass exodus down the path to a hoard of tuk-tuks waiting to shuttle people to the bowling alley. As we walked toward them, we made fast friends with a pair of Dutch guys that were happy to bargain for us down to only 5,000kip each for the ride.
Once our tuk tuk was full, we set out on a short ride to the lanes. I think we had expected some kind of swag bowling alley, but it the exact opposite. The place was all white concrete and bright, BRIGHT fluorescent lights–not at all what you’d expect for a late night party spot, but party we did. The group of us in the tuk tuk ended up going in on a lane together which cost 20,000kip per person, per game. Every lane was packed with backpackers drinking, bowling, and being extremely loud, as is expected. Our lane was no exception and we soon made friends with the group of people in the lane next to us, making our crowd even bigger and louder. It was really quite fun!
Around 2am, our group decided it was time to head back to town, so we shared a loud, drunken, and hilarious tuk tuk ride back to our guesthouses. Shamefully, we didn’t have a camera or phone on us so we don’t have any pictures of the night, but we will surely hold the memory forever in our hearts.
Mount Phou Si Fee: 40,000kip
Street Barbecue: 150,000kip
Tuk Tuk: 10,000kip
Bowling Alley: 110,000kip
Tuk Tuk: 20,000kip
Total Spent: 660,000kip ($81.51 USD)